Male dress codes
You'll almost never see local men wearing shorts in public in Jordan. Western men who break this code give roughly the same impression that they would wandering around Bournemouth or Baltimore in their underpants. If you were to wear short trousers, no doubt you'd be served in shops and restaurants – since to refuse would be disrespectful – but everyone would be rolling their eyes and tutting, and you'd be the butt of countless behind-your-back sniggers.
Long trousers are essential in the city, the country and the desert, whatever the weather; clean and respectable light cotton, denim or canvas ones (not the flimsy, brightly patterned beach-style ones) demonstrate normality and conformity – attributes high on the Jordanian social agenda. The exceptions to the shorts rule are central Amman in the summer, and Aqaba, which can get so absurdly hot that even some locals cool their knees.
T-shirts are fine, since younger men do wear them; however, any garment that doesn't cover your shoulders and upper arms is also liable to tag you as an underwear-flaunting loony.
Loose buttoned shirts are far more common than anything else and, in general, you'll be received more respectfully by more people if you wear a tucked-in shirt than a tucked-out T-shirt. Jordanian men never, in any situation, walk around topless.
Female dress codes
To interact as a Western woman in Jordanian society with some degree of mutual respect, you'll probably have to go to even greater lengths than men to adjust your normal style of dress, although it is possible to do so without compromising your freedom and individuality too much.
Loose-fitting, opaque clothes that cover your legs, arms and chest are a major help in allowing you to relate normally with local men. If shorts appear ridiculous on men, on women they appear flagrantly sexual and provocative, as do Lycra leggings. The nape of the neck is considered particularly erotic and so is best covered, either by a high collar or a thin cotton scarf.
Hair is another area where conservatism helps deter unwanted attention. Jordanian women who don't wear a headscarf rarely let long hair hang below their shoulders; you might like to follow suit and clip long hair up. Walking around with wet hair is - for some reason - a general indication that you've just had sex, and thus may not be the kind of signal you wish to broadcast. If your hair is blonde, you must unfortunately resign yourself to more inquisitive, and sexualized, attention - at least while walking around in conservative town-centres - simply because of the novelty.
